from yogimarley

Overall this was a good book. I've been a surfer for 10 years and he does a great job of describing the diffuculty of trying to learn the sport. The book is true to its title, alot of the descriptions are "kook-ish"--almost to the point of becoming annoying. I enjoyed the book as more of a quest ...

from yogimarley

Overall this was a good book. I've been a surfer for 10 years and he does a great job of describing the diffuculty of trying to learn the sport. The book is true to its title, alot of the descriptions are "kook-ish"--almost to the point of becoming annoying. I enjoyed the book as more of a quest ...

from frederikv

"Surfing is an addiction". It is impossible not to believe Peter Heller when he writes this simple statement, after having read him describing several months of his quest to become a surfer. He takes his reader along on a journey from California south deep into Mexico, all the while truthfully de...

from kenno82

This book really nails the brief... keeps the surfing dream alive for all of us that just want to pack up the bags, hit the beach and learn how to surf.

from terbby

I would call this a book about a quest. On one level it's about the author's quest to learn to surf at age 47. On another it's a journey of self-discovery, and an autobiography; and it's a travel story. In the end the author claims success on all levels; self-serving but believable because of the...